scritch,scritch,scritch

The sounds of removing metal in very small amounts,,,,

Fred asked for details, and I provided him some, but after doing so, Figured, ‘y’know self? Mehbe ya aughta post that,,,”

Using a mill file (the cut of the teeth determines the style)

Showing use of an actual scraper, and no, I ain’t doing it “Right” since I was also trying to hold the fone More trying to give someone an idea of what the process is.

NOW,,, I am gonna say this. It looks simple, IS in all actual physics, but it IS most definitely a SKILL and ART in more ways that I could explain. I mentioned to Fred in one of my emails to him “TRUST YOUR FINGERTIPS” Most people won’t believe you when you tell them you can feel the difference in a .001″ shelf. Seriously, with a little experiance, I can feel a difference of around .0005″ I use a surface indicator for that level of change, but I find I can feel it easier using a fingernail. (no setting up gauges and arm geegaws,,, just drag a finger nail across it.) No, thats not “Science” as in no I didn’t measure it: that makes it ART! Things get too wonky, then the gauges come out and the machinists blue and test surfaces, but a fingernail is the first go to.

And yes, you can feel when the surface is starting to take on curvature/dome shape. (that was why I switched to the files,,, easier to maintian level with that draw-knife action.)

Am I done yet? OH, hell no. Am I done with scraping that part? I think so. I did put 2 and 4 back in, and checked both times with a torque wrench (the digital so I can see preload) All the con-rods bolted in, Mains 1,3,5 in, Preload was 26ft#,,, Add in the real#2 and it went up to 27ft# Add in the new #4 (the busted cap replacement) and it raised all of 1ft# to 28.

Now this is NOT torqued in yet. This is just me using the air ratchet (electric actually, but it acts just like an air ratchet) which seats things roughly 15ft# Thats my first step in the torque sequence. But 27ft# of preload is completely acceptable. I am going to get some plastigauge and double check both caps/bearings. But I honestly feel both are well and good at this point.

Maybe not scientifically correct, or race car level Anal Retentive, but more than enough to get a couple more years out of this block and prepare for complete replacement later down the road.

Note the cap on the left of the pic, and there is a ledge on the far left edge,,, That was from the Mill and when I decided “Hand-fit it is!”. The Bearing doesn’t ride on that part so its not critical. My jig had ‘wiggled’ just enough that as I was going to make a second pass,,, that ledge was created. NOPE, not a gonna fubar a $35 part,,, May have two in back up, but thats no excuse,,, Do it by hand and BE SURE.

SO, I get some plastigauge this week (and only two because the local parts house that carries it charges $5 for ONE strip (from a pack of 10!!! Frellin $50 for a pack of the stuff is what they are getting and WILL NOT sell the package.) I’ll double check my work on Christmas eve or Christmas day, and then begin ‘fixing’ any issues I may find (not enough/too much clearance) OR begin final assembly towards RUNNING BLOO TWUCK,,,, Fingers are crossed, blessings begged, and prayers flying as if from a belt fed prayer gun.

And until then, I has a J.O.B. that needs attended to, a shortened week paycheck at the rough end, and some time to keep questioning myself and sanity.

y’all take care,,

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