Welcome to my brain. It’s messy. It’s interesting. And it’s all connected if you stick around long enough. "Believe Nothing: no matter who said it, even if I have said it, except it agree with your own reason and common sense. Siddhartha Guatamo, the Buddha.

Dio vs Yak rnd 6

So, I kinda had a working weekend. Too cold to get out on the water, rained most of the weekend, and when it wasn’t raining, the wind was playing merry hob with things. In fact, one of my gages I had made for this build took flight at one point. Found it near the treeline of the yard, 60 feet from the house.

Yup, working weekend, and gained ground.

A lot flew by and I realized I hadn’t taken any pictures, so I stopped and snapped a few. I thought about mounting a camera on the porch and programming it to take time delayed sets, but that was about 8 hours too late today.

But, here goes.

First up. Gunwales laid up getting ready to cut and tenon deckbeams.

Second: front deckbeams installed.

(This was where I stopped for the day.) Note the compound curve of the forward end. I want this boat to cut the water and that curve will help shape the bow for such.

Some side shots showing details of layout.

It looks like the cockpit is too far forward, and I know it, but I checked three times and my ‘seat’ is aft of center. Maybe after the bow and stern boards are in place, it will look ‘right’. There is also the lack of ribs to define the shape, and that may have some bearing on appearance right now. The sheerline is always shallower in the rear, “balancing the look” its also wider back there so displacement is a touch higher.

Some numbers to play with. With my weight, projected weight of boat and some miscellaneous gear, I need to displace 29 gallons of water for good buoyancy. At current build status, that will put my waterline 2-2 1/2 inches below the top of the gunwale at the lowest cockpit area. I can increase the volume of the boat by making the ribs longer, but that will increase the tippiness of her also. I can’t change the width now, not much anyway. I can add another chine at the bottom part of the gunwale, and that will add some secondary stability, by extending the beam a touch, and I may do that. It would also increase the side angles some, raising the volume of the boat.

And I may yet do that. Its easy enough to add a 1/2″x1/2″ strip there, and it won’t look odd after the skin is in place. And it doesn’t really “add” to the beam from the cockpit view, so won’t effect my paddling.

More later. I’ll have the deckbeams done in the next couple days, but I still have to go out and chase that fithy lucre called “income”. LOL. I’ll be cutting the rib stock later this week to, and I’ll play some with the below deck shape in the meantime. I have some whiteoak cut super thin that works for experimenting, as you can see near the bow and midships at the cockpit. Bends like taffy but not strong enough for actual duty. Both of those pieces were cut to the gage standard as describe in Chris’ book, and they might work for a full blown greenland boat, but I want a different shape, so they will change. Its late, i have to work in the AM, and I havent exactly ‘rested’ tthis weekend. Though; work like this stuff tends to energize me more than “work”. In fact, I’ll have to be careful at work to keep my mind on “work”, and not daydreaming about whats sitting on my porch, waiting to be finished.

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